I should start by saying I'm not a heavy equipment dealer. I'm the office administrator who ended up managing our company’s equipment purchases after our previous guy retired in 2021. When we needed to buy a kobelco 70 excavator last year, I basically taught myself the whole process—from comparing kobelco excavator sizes to figuring out why our transport truck looked like a squatted truck when loaded. I messed up a few times, learned some hard lessons, and I’m sharing the checklist I wish I'd had.
This guide is for small to mid-sized construction or site prep companies. If you're looking at a Kobelco SK70 (or similar), and you need to account for everything from the initial spec to the honda generator you'll need for site power, this will save you some headaches.
Step 1: Match the Machine to the Job (It’s Not Just About Kobelco Excavator Sizes)
The first mistake people make is looking at kobelco excavator sizes and picking the biggest one they can afford. I almost did this. I wanted the Kobelco SK80 because it had more breakout force. But our main jobs are residential utility work. The SK70 is lighter and more maneuverable in tight spaces.
Here’s what I check now:
- Job site access: Can a standard trailer carry the machine without it being a squatted truck? The SK70 weighs around 16,000 lbs. If your tow vehicle isn't rated for that, you’re in trouble. More on this in a second.
- Attachment availability: We use a hydraulic breaker and a thumb. Make sure the hydraulic flow of the model you pick (Kobelco lists this in the spec sheet) matches the tools you'll rent or buy.
- Fuel efficiency: The SK70 is pretty good on fuel, but a larger model in the same size class might be thirstier. We track this.
I want to say the SK70 is the perfect size for 80% of jobs, but don't quote me on that—it really depends on your mix. We then cross-reference with the kobelco excavator sizes chart to see if we're getting a 'real' 7-ton machine or a beefed-up 6-ton.
Step 2: The Transport Checklist (Avoid the Squatted Truck Nightmare)
This is where the 'real talk' starts. We bought the machine, and then I had to figure out how to get it to the first site. I hired a local guy with a heavy-duty pickup and a gooseneck trailer.
The issue? The truck, when loaded, looked like a squatted truck—the back end was way lower than the front. That's a huge red flag. It meant the tongue weight was wrong, and the truck was overloaded.
Your transport checklist:
- Know your GVWR and payload: Don't trust the dealer's 'we can haul it' handshake. Check the truck's door sticker. The payload must include the excavator, trailer weight, fuel, and your tools.
- Check the trailer rating: A 7,000-lb excavator needs a trailer that can carry at least 10,000 lbs (with a margin).
- Watch the tongue weight: If the truck isn't level after loading, you need to adjust the excavator's position on the trailer. A squatted truck is a safety hazard and can ruin your truck's suspension.
- Permits: Check if you need overweight permits. We didn't, but I've heard stories.
I knew I should have weighed the rig before we left. But I thought, 'What are the odds it's over?' Well, the odds caught up with me when the truck bottomed out on a speed bump.
Step 3: Site Power & Support Equipment (Why You Need a Honda Generator)
No one tells you about the auxiliary stuff. The excavator runs on diesel, but you'll need electricity for lights, chargers, and maybe a small pump. We bought a honda generator for this.
I went back and forth between a cheap inverter generator from the hardware store and a honda generator for about a week. The cheap one was $400 less. The Honda was $1,100. Ultimately chose the Honda because it's quieter, more reliable, and if it breaks down, I can't afford the downtime.
What to look for:
- Output: 2,000-3,000 watts is plenty for a job site. A 2,200-watt honda generator runs our lights and a small saw.
- Noise: Honda generators are famously quiet (around 50-60 dB). You won't get complaints from the neighbors.
- Reliability: A cheap generator might fail after 50 hours. The Honda will run for years if you maintain it.
We actually bought the generator before the excavator, which felt backwards. If I remember correctly, we paid $1,150 for the EU2200i at a local dealer.
Step 4: Site Prep & Material Handling (Learning How to Drive a Forklift)
You might think this is irrelevant, but it's not. The day the excavator arrived, we had a pallet of concrete culverts sitting in the driveway. The excavator can lift them, but it's not precise. We needed a forklift.
Our operator knew how to drive a forklift, but I didn't. So I spent a few hours learning. It's not hard, but it's a specific skill.
Basic forklift checklist for site prep:
- Check the counterweight: A 5,000-lb excavator part needs a 5,000-lb rated forklift.
- Stability: Never move with the load raised. Keep the forks low.
- Surface: Make sure the ground is compact enough so you don't sink in. If you're stuck, you'll need the excavator to pull you out—creating a vicious cycle.
I should also mention that knowing how to drive a forklift is a good skill for any site supervisor. It's not just for the warehouse guys. We now require everyone on site to get a basic certification.
Step 5: The Paperwork (Hidden Costs & Common Errors)
I've processed maybe 200 equipment orders in the last four years, and the paperwork is where things fall apart. The vendor who couldn't provide proper invoicing on a different purchase cost us $2,400 in rejected expenses.
For the Kobelco 70 excavator buy:
- Warranty registration: Make sure it's done before you take delivery. Kobelco offers a standard warranty, but you need to register it.
- Financing: If you're financing, ensure the dealer provides a clear breakdown of interest and fees. I saw a deal where the interest rate was '0%' but hidden documentation fees added 3%.
- Insurance: Notify your insurance provider. A $50,000 excavator needs a policy update.
- Maintenance schedule: Kobelco provides a manual. Read it. It's not optional. We ignored the hydraulic oil change schedule for 100 hours and it cost us a new filter and pump.
Step 6: Final Assembly & Inspection (Before You Say It's Ready)
When the machine arrives, don't just sign off. Do a final walk-through.
Checklist:
- Fluid levels: Check engine oil, hydraulic fluid, coolant. The dealer should have done this, but we found a machine with low diesel once.
- Track tension: Too tight and they wear out; too loose and they come off. There's a specific way to measure it in the manual.
- Bucket teeth: Are they sharp? If not, plan to replace them. We bought a set of aftermarket ones for $180.
- Safety features: Test the seat belt, the ROPS structure, and the emergency shut-off.
After all that, we fired up the honda generator for the lights, and the operator (who knew how to drive a forklift) helped position the excavator for the first dig. It felt good. But I'll never forget the feeling of seeing that squatted truck on the first trip—a mistake I won't make again.
That's it. It's a process, but if you follow this checklist, you'll avoid the worst of it. If you have questions, I'm happy to help, though I might be misremembering exact numbers. Just don't ask me about the time we forgot the grease gun.
